I threw these pages together for the 2005 trip so we could keep all the useful
info for the trip in one convenient place. Much of it was actually written by Sumit.
Hopefully it will be useful for future trips too.
THE SURMC 3 PEAK EXPEDITION, NEPAL
Mt Nirekha (6159m), Lobuche East (6119m) and Pokalde Peak (5806m)
This trip offers moderately technical climbing at times, with stunning
views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks of Everest, Cho Oyu, Nuptse,
Lhotse, Makalu, AmaDablam and many, many more.
An ascent of these three peaks is a fantastic introduction to
Himalayan climbing. It is also a great opportunity to climb a
multitude of classic 6000m peaks, in a relatively short time, in one
of the most spectacular settings in the world.
Mt Nirekha is located deep in the Himalayas, near the Tibetan border,
hidden among the well-known giants of Mt. Everest, Cho Oyu, and
Cholatse in the Mahalangur Region. Only recently has it been opened up
to Western climbers. The climb itself is relatively straightforward,
requiring ice-axe, crampons and some fixed rope sections. It's a very
do-able climb for anyone in good shape and with a desire for high
Lobuche East is a little more technical withmore fixed rope and
slightly more exposure. The high camp is dramatic with exceptional
views across towards AmaDablam, especially at sunset when the peaks
turn pink as the sun sets into Tibet.
Pokhalde the easiest out of the lot is another exciting and popular
trekking peak. The view from the summit of Nuptse and Lhotse's south
faces is awe-inspiring
The 27 day expedition commences on 23 November 2005, meeting in Kathmandu,
and we fly to Lukla on day 3.
Plan is to walk from Lukla to Dingboche as a independent trekking
group in a famouse Everest Base Camp trail, Via Namche Bazar and
Tengboche Monastry. From here our Kitchen crew and the Porters will
join the group for next 12 days of Trekking and climbing on Upper
After an important acclimatisation/rest days in Dingboche, we prepare
to make our first crossing of high pass, the kongma la and climb
Pokalde. After Summiting Pokalde we cross Khongma La to Khumbu
Glacier. Our camp is an hour above the village of Lobuche from where
we can enjoy spectacular views of Pumori and Nuptse. After a rest and
preparation day we move up to a high camp on Lobuche, and set up camp
on a small expanse of snow or rock, above a deep, blue lake. It's then
early to bed for an alpine start. Our early start (around 2.30am) sees
us climbing the south east ridge, which is a mixture of moderately
steep snow and ice. Where necessary, we fix ropes along the
route. Steady climbing will bring us to the far eastern summit. From
the top we are well rewarded with superb views across to Ama Dablam ,
Makalu, Lhotse, Everest, Nuptse, Changtse (in Tibet) Pumori, Gyachung
Kang, and Cho Oyu. Then it's down, all the way back to Dzongla. After
another rest and preparation day we move over to our high camp on
Nirekha at 5500m. An early start will be required to get up Nirekha
too, before it gets too hot and after summiting we then descend and
head to well known Cho La (Pass). Which will bring us too the famouse
Gokyo lakes, where we will spend our last day with the Kitchen crews
and our Porters. Expoloring the Upper Gokyo valley. Once again we will
start making our way back independently, enjoying the comfort of
Sherpa Tea-Houses to Lukla.
Last modified: Tue Jun 22 15:59:11 EST 2004